Sprucehaven Farms

Decks, arbors, pergolas, hot tubs and other structures are the hardscape features that are most often found in a landscape design. Plants are considered to be the softscape features. The 2 elements interact and harmonize with each other to create a sense of aesthetically pleasing design. There are many ways in which to work plants into the deck design which can range from a few low maintenance plant containers to an integrated arrangement of permanent planting beds. The decision to place plants here or there can have a powerful effect upon the finished look.
Use plants for screens to create a sense of privacy. Plant a leafy vine or a mass of dense shrubs to develop a feeling of enclosure. The same technique will work well to also block off an undesirable view.
Various types of plants can be utilized to add interest to walls and fences. Use vines and other climbing plants, shrubs as well as flowers to break up the monotony of such large wood, brick or stone surfaces.
Dividing the deck space into separate areas can easily be achieved through the strategic placement of plants. Build raised planters to visually define different areas and direct traffic patters to and from and through an area.
Use various plants to gently soften transitions from the house to the deck or from the deck to the yard. Plants in containers placed in corners and along deck edges can conceal or soften transition lines.
Plants can be used to link the deck to the garden by simply using a few of the same types of plants. This applies also to using one or more of the same bloom colors in both areas. The result will be a wonderful sense of design unity.
Use plants to create variety and interest on the deck. They are especially powerful when used as accents. Plant blooms can provide a spot of color in one area while an interesting foliage texture can create a pleasant distraction in another area. Container plants are a wonderful choice for this technique because they can be moved around so easily until a final decision is made where they are to be finally positioned.
Plants may be used to create perspective on and around the deck. The idea is to create compositions consisting of foreground, middle ground and background. This is achieved by the strategic placement of tall, medium and short plants in appropriate places. Two or 3 of these arrangements are especially effective in a larger yard in order to keep areas distinct from one another.
Plants are energetic. They grow and change during the course of the seasons. They definitely need maintenance and require specific growing conditions such as light and shade. Plants offer endless variations of color, texture, size, form and fragrance. The decision to place specific plants in specific areas depends upon a number of variables.
Identify the purpose of each planting bed, plant container or other plant location. That will determine whether there is a need for tall, massed shrubs for a privacy screen, a broad tree for shade or an eyecatching mix of bloom colors and textures for a decorative accent.
Discover the growing conditions of each specific panting area. Identify sun patterns, whether the soil is moist or fast or slow draining and if plants are able to grow in containers or plant beds.
Make a decision as to the amount of care that will likely be given to maintaining the plants selected. Some plants require pruning while others need pinching. Some plants and trees require constant sweeping up of needles or raking of leaves. Some plants need water twice a day while others require watering weekly.
Do some homework by walking around the neighborhood to see what looks and grows well locally. Talk to neighbors who seem to have a green thumb. Take notes. Bring along the digital camera to record what looks good, especially plant groupings. Visit the nurseries and garden outlets in town to seek expert advice for specific areas and situations.
Gardening books, internet websites, garden clubs, horticulture displa ys and shows are all excellent resources that can provide a wealth of usable information for deciding upon what becomes a part of the deck softscape.
The careful selection of plants and their strategic placement on or around the deck will do much to enhance the total landscape design and create an outdoor living space that is aesthetically pleasing to all who use it.

The importance of proper watering cannot be stressed enough for your container garden plants. Container Gardens are exposed to wind and sun so they dry out quicker than plants in the ground. There are no exact rules about watering your container garden plants. You have to become acquainted with the needs of various garden plants. The best tip is to examine them daily and water the plant when the surface of the soil begins to look dry. Feeling the soil will also help you determine the moisture needs of your container garden. Or, take the easy way and invest in a water meter if you are not sure.

How much and when to water will depend on the kind of plant and soil, the type and size of container, and the amount of exposure to sun and wind. Climate and the weather also play their part. During hot spells most plants in your container garden need daily water, except those in small clay pots, which may require it twice. Some plants, like fuchsias and tuberous begonias, wilt when dry, but geraniums and succulents are not so sensitive to neglect. On the other hand, it is good to let soil dry out a little between watering. This prevents the soil from depleting its nutrients.

Since unglazed containers dry out quickest, watch them more closely. Wooden tubs, window boxes, and planters dry out more slowly; metal is the slowest of all. Groups of plants in large containers keep moist longer than single specimens. A good technique to avoid excess dryness is to have groupings of plants, arranged close together. This allows the container plants to shade one another to keep cool and stop moisture evaporation.

There are several methods of watering the plants. If you have many containers in your container garden, depend on the hose, allowing water to flow through slowly and gently. Water small pots with a watering can that has a long spout or buy one of the self watering containers now available. When plants are grouped closely in a container garden, set up a sprinkler or hose with a fine spray nearby, allowing it to run for a long while, until the soil is soaked. In many states where the climate is dry, an automatic sprinkler system is a must to keep your whole garden hydrated. Remember this tip with geraniums and petunias, avoid sprinklers which spot blossoms.

One thing is certain; you must not depend on rain to keep your container garden plants hydrated. Even heavy showers deposit a surprisingly small amount of moisture, and unless rains are frequent and lengthy, you must do your own watering. Remember those window boxes and other containers near houses or under trees can stay dry in spite of an all-day downpour.

Though it is essential to give enough water to your container garden, it is equally important not to over water and so cause root rot. Over-watering also prevents aeration of the soil, and will cause the plant to drown.

One good method is to set your container garden, if the containers are not too large, in a basin or pail of water for several hours, or until the surface of the soil feels moist (this is the theory behind self watering containers). Or immerse the pot in a tub or large barrel of water and leave it there until air is eliminated and the bubbling stops.

The best general rule is to soak soil thoroughly when you water and then allow it to go just a bit dry before you water your container garden again. Best of all, keep a small spiral notebook and paste the care of each plant into it so that you will always have the needs of each individual plant at your fingertips.

If you go away for long periods during the summer, give the container garden serious thought before making it a project. On the other hand, you can enjoy both holidays and plants if you are absent for only short periods. The best safeguard is to entrust your container garden to a responsible friend. Or if you are going away for a vacation at your second home, or one that you have rented, take the container garden with you as a little bit of home.

Several techniques can be practiced. One is to arrange smaller containers in boxes of peat moss, sawdust, or soil, which has been well soaked. Then there is the pot-in-pot method, whereby small pots are set in larger ones, with moist peat moss inserted between.

As mentioned above, in many of the garden centers self watering containers are offered for sale. These are ideal for your container garden when you are traveling or taking a vacation.

Happy Container Gardening!

Copyright © 2006 Mary Hanna All Rights Reserved.

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Flower garden plants can be used effectively to produce a stunning garden that has blooms the entire season long. The type of garden plants used should figure prominently in your garden design. Annuals, flower bulbs, ornamental grasses, perennials, biennials and climbing vines are all excellent flower garden plants. These plants will have their own growth requirements and will only grow in specific conditions. Additionally some plants may require special treatment to grow properly.

Flowering plants that last year after year are called perennials. These plants will return every year but they only produce flowers for about two to four weeks a year. You can chose perennials that bloom at different times of the year so your garden should have a mix of early, mid and late blooming perennials in order to have blooms all season. Perennials will multiply on their own, so you can plan on dividing yours and having new plants for another part of your garden every 3 years or so.

Annuals are flower garden plants that only last for one season as their whole life is contained within one season. These plants produce colorful flowers that will last the entire season. Some popular perennials are nigella, sweet alyssum, blue salvia, spider flowers, marguerite daisies, Brazilian verbena and cosmos. These flowers do produce seeds each year so they can grow again.

Biennials are similar to annuals but their life span lasts for two years. The first year they grow leaves and then it is during the second year that they produce flowers. Despite the fact that they die after two years many gardeners love biennials, as their flowers are exquisite. Verbascums, foxgloves and hollyhocks are all very popular biennials. Many times you will find biennials next to the annuals in your garden store.

Tuber and corms are also called flower bulbs and these plants hibernate underground. Each year they store energy for the following year in their bulb that is stored underground. In order to grow the next year they need to go through a cold season though some bulbs, mainly summer bulbs cannot tolerate temperatures under freezing. Tulips, crocuses, daffodils and snowdrops are all early blooming bulbs and gladioli, dahlias, begonia, calla lilies and canna lilies are summer flowering bulbs. If you live in a very cold climate and want to plant bulbs that can’t tolerate the freezing temperatures, you can dig them up in the fall and overwinter them in your cellar or a cold area, then plant them again in spring.

If you have a small yard and need to focus on vertical space then climbing vines are the flower garden plants for you. These plants are great on a trellis. Some easy growing vines that have lovely flowers are the hyacinth, sweet peas, morning glories and clematis. Ornamental grass is also a different type of flower garden plant as it is mainly used to add texture to a garden. The grass will change color throughout the year while flowering in the fall and it moves when touched by the smallest breeze.

There is a strong belief among many people, that Australian Natives are beautiful but have no perfume. A stroll through the bush will dispel that rumour easily.

The fragrance of crushed leaves and scented blossoms can be almost overpowering at times. But many of the natives have a more subtle fragrance; you have to be close to them at the correct time to appreciate the flavours and scents.

The perfume of native plants is often produced at different times of the day or night. Perfumed native flowers include many of the Grevilleas (some like G. biternata and G. G. buxifolia have a strong honey-like perfume others like G. buxifolia have a light fragrant perfume), Boronias ( e.g. B. floribunda, B. serrulata and B. megastigma), Sowerbaeas (Vanilla Lilies), Xanthoreas (Grass Trees), Banksias, Eleaocarpus reticulatus (Blueberry Ash) which has a strong almost aniseed scent, Hakeas, Pittosporum undulatum (Native Daphne) — the perfume of this species may becoming overpowering in the evening –, Leptospermum species (e.g. L. flavescens), Homoranthus species (which has a Baked Biscuit scent) and Hymenosporum flavum (Native Frangipani). Many of the white flowering Eucalypts, Melaleuca and Callistemon species have a strong honey scent.

There are a number of fragrant orchids particularly the Dendrobium species: these tend to be strongest from early morning to the early afternoon. While some of the Cymbidium species such as C. suave have a good perfume during the middle of the day). The Sarcochilus species have what is best described as a spicy aroma.

The aroma released by some plants foliage is not revealed until it has been disturbed, crushed or brushed against. These include the Backhousia citriodora (Lemon Myrtle) which is probably the best of all native lemon scents and is also used commercially as a cooking ingredient, while the foliage of B. anisata is strongly scented like aniseed; Eremophilas, Eriostemon species, Prosantheras,

Leptospermum petersoni (Lemon-scented Tea-tree — also good as a hedging plant), Darwinia citriodora (a light lemon scent) and some Melaleucas (Paperbarks) also have scents.

Of course you can’t forget the Eucalypt family with its famous eucalypt scent, which is redolent of our bushland. But now many other countries are growing vast plantations of them for timber, firewood and revegetation programs on every continent bar Antartica. One species, the E. citriodora gives off a strong lemon-come-eucalypt scent while Agonis flexuosa has a combination of eucalyptus and peppermint scent.

Calomeria elegans has been used as a substitute for lavender. Some species of Boronias also have strongly scented foliage.

And let’s not forget the grassy type plants, the lomandra’s and the Grass trees, both of which give a lovely honeyed smell when in flower.

So why not think about using some fragrant native plants in your garden. Not only will you get the benefit of supporting your local environment. But you might also get other benefits, like attracting birds, other wildlife and butterflies to your garden.